Strange as it may sound, many roof leaks are caused by the very thing that fastens the shingles to the roof, the roofing nails themselves! But you say, how could that possibly be? If you don’t use nails, then the shingles will blow off……….right?

The problem lies with the nails being driven in the wrong places or simply too many nails used to do the job. Recently, I was called to do a roof repair around a chimney that was leaking during heavy rains. In removing the old material down to a bare wood deck, I pulled out 169 roofing nails. Now I normally don’t count the number of roofing nails in a situation such as this but the amount was so high I was curious.

The felt paper was overnailed, the shingles were overnailed and the flashing was especially overnailed. Many times it seems the roofer’s mindset is, ’The more nails I use, the less likely the roof is to leak’. Actually, just the opposite is true. Sure, you need to adequately fasten material down but it should be done with minimal intrusion and done in the correct location! I used 79 nails to put the same material back together.

Thus, on that job, I gained 90 nails. At that rate I would never have to purchase roofing nails.

The concept of roofing is very simple, directing water over overlapping material to get it off the roof. But if the material is penetrated by a roofing nail that is accessible by water, guess what? You have a roof leak. Nails should NEVER be used in a valley or close to a valley. I like to stay at least 8 inches away from a valley with any nails. The force of water coming down a roof valley is great and it will flow sideways to a degree. One can allow for that situation by keeping the valley area free of roofing nails.

Many roofers will use caulk or tar to keep water from getting through a hole made by an ill-placed roofing nail, I prefer to use common sense and not make the hole to start with.

Rooftop Readings are written by Tracy Hanning. Tracy holds BS and MA degrees and is a veteran Industrial Arts teacher. He founded Solid Rock Roofing, Inc. in 1991.

What in the world is a pipe boot? You could think of it as a piece of footwear that covers and protects a round pipe on a roof. Some call them pipe flashings or Oateys or Never-Leaks. You see, plumbers need a way to allow the stinky odor from the sinks, bathtubs and commodes to escape from the bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms harmlessly through the roof and into the atmosphere. The pipe boot is the transition device that allows the pipe to exit up through the shingles while preventing rainwater from entering the house around the outside of the pipe.

Some pipe boots are made of plastic but typically consists of an aluminum rectangle with a neoprene rubber gasket fitted in its center. Properly installed, pipe boots work really well for about the first 8 years. At about that stage of life the neoprene rubber gasket begins to develop splits where it fits around the pipe and allows rainwater to enter the house. At first the water is usually absorbed by the attic insulation but eventually the rainwater will reach the drywall ceiling, run to a seam in the drywall and soak through showing up as a stained spot or line on the ceiling.

I carry a retrofit product on my truck that can correct the problem in minutes. It is made in San Jose, California and is simply a donut shaped piece of EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) that fits snugly around the pipe and down over the old neoprene gasket. I have used this product for over 15 years and have fixed hundreds of leaks caused by the failing neoprene gasket material. Most roofers are not aware of this product so their solution to the problem is to smear some caulk on the old neoprene or to install a complete new pipe boot. The first solution is temporary and the second solution is expensive while lasting only 8 more years.

Why do we put up with products that have limited lifespans? Why do the pipe boot manufacturers continue to make pipe boots using neoprene instead of EPDM?

Tell me and we will both know!

Rooftop Readings are written by Tracy Hanning. Tracy holds BS and MA degrees and is a veteran Industrial Arts teacher. He founded Solid Rock Roofing, Inc. in 1991.

Like sponges you say? How could that be?

When I look at a chimney, I see a sponge. I see it as an object that takes on and absorbs water. I have been called to look at a so-called roof leak only to discover the problem to be the chimney. The water eventually works it way into the house as it seeks it own level usually showing up as a stain on a ceiling or wall. Whether the chimney is built of brick, stone or wood, they all can leak and cause grief with the homeowner.

Chimney leaks can originate anywhere but the most common culprit is a cracked masonry crown. Since Joe Homeowner cannot see the crown, he has no idea of its condition. Sidewalks crack and masonry crowns will do the same. A wise homeowner will have an annual inspection by a competent professional to assess the condition of those items that are above the eyesight of the average homeowner. It just makes sense. Chimney rebuilds can cost over five thousand dollars.

In our northern climate, the moisture inside a masonry chimney will freeze and expand creating larger cracks and crevices. Bricks will spall (burst apart) and deface at this point. So, it is imperative the crown be kept in good repair. Actually, the best crown is not masonry at all but one made of sheet lead. You see, sheet lead is a very pliable product and can be formed around the flue liners and sealed. I know of no way a lead crown can leak if it is kept sealed around the flue liners.

Wood chimneys should be banned! The problems are many starting with the original construction. They are simply two by fours framed into a box and sitting on a roof and covered with sheathing and siding. The constant beating of the weather opens the joints and the rain flows right in. It takes a lot of caulking to keep a wood chimney weathertight. If anyone is set on building a wood chimney be sure to use housewrap between the sheathing and the siding and for heavens sake allow it to lap OVER the step flashing.

And I haven’t even mentioned chimney flashing. Yes, the flashing is the culprit many times as well but I will write about that at another time.

Rooftop Readings are written by Tracy Hanning. Tracy holds BS and MA degrees and is a veteran Industrial Arts teacher. He founded Solid Rock Roofing, Inc. in 1991.